Adventure - 7
Mon 13th May
Cliff has found a walk which takes us up along the clifftops above the Vulture Belvedere, the theory being that we can get high enough up to be able to look down on the vultures below us. Fortunately he decides to have pity on me and my ankle and drive up to the top! Well, we turned off the main road at a little village called Le Truel and began the ascent. And what an ascent it is! Mind you, the sign at the bottom did warn of a narrow road on which caravans and motorhomes were forbidden, I suppose that might have given us a bit of a clue. If you don’t have a head for heights (as I don’t believe it or not), this is not the road for you. Narrow, yes, steep, yes. Hairpin bends so tight the truck couldn’t get around in one go. Most took two or three shuffles back and forth and when you are going backwards with a 1000 ft drop behind you, you do not want the brakes to fail! It was so scary I couldn’t even look to take photos! Phew, was I glad when we reached the top, I sincerely hoped that there would be another way down. A different land at the top of these cliffs, undulating grassland, almost flat in places. We made our way to the start of the walk and set off. Well, it wasn’t called the Sentier Des Corniches for nothing. Very soon the path narrowed and we found ourselves on the edge, literally, with drops down of about 500 or 600 ft.
Stunning views all around but we couldn’t look too much as we had to be very careful where we put our feet! Sammy had his special mountaineering coat on with a handle on his back so we could rescue him if needed. But – where are the vultures? At the Vulture Centre last week we saw 30 or 40 wheeling around overhead today we could see – none! Well, maybe one or two in the distance. Perhaps one of their number had found a dead cow and they’d all gone out for lunch, whatever they were it wasn’t where we were. Still, we didn’t mind too much, the walk was brilliant and the weather beautiful. Will have to go back another day for vulture spotting. We have spotted a few bee-eaters around although we hear them more than see them – there’s not many birds which chirrup to each other while in mid-air so they are easy to recognise from their calls. We managed to find a less terrifying road down so got back safe and found ourselves a nice little café overlooking the river where we had a refreshing drink and Sammy met a little friend!
Sammy in his posh coat --- Vulture not Bee-eater! --- Sammy and his friend
Tue 14th May
Walked into Millau first thing, alongside the river which runs behind the campsite. Lovely sunny day. We wandered around the old part of the town, admired the marketplace built in 1889 and the belfry, then sat and had our usual morning coffee.
We then drove up to view the Millau Viaduct which when we were here on our 2002 cycling tour they were just starting to build. It is now the world’s highest multi-stayed viaduct with its highest point being 343 metres above the valley floor – taller than the Eiffel Tower! A very impressive but, strangely, beautiful structure spanning the river valley at a length of 2460 metres. We went first to the exhibition centre where we walked up to the viewpoint to take pictures. There were an amazing number of butterflies, including huge swallowtails, among the grasses and wild flowers at the top. Then we drove over the viaduct just for the fun of it (fun that cost 7 Euros for the toll!) and down the other side to view it from underneath. Here, built into the cliff face, was the tiny medieval village of Peyre where we found a little buvette with a terrace overlooking the river and the bridge. Of course we had to stop for a drink – a cold one this time as the afternoon was very hot. Sammy had already found himself a medieval drinking (and dunking) place! We were glad to get back to Brian and put the air conditioning on so we could all cool down.
Wed 15th May
Raining today so we drove to Espallion which is our next planned campsite. Having found that manoeuvring Brian is such a pain and that even though the pitches might be big enough to accommodate us, the access to the pitch may not be, we’ve decided the best thing to do, where possible, is to checkout the campsite before we go there! So off we go. It’s only two hours away so not too bad. Into Espallion on the main street, looking for signs to the campsite. There’s a campsite sign, I said, as we drove past it – but surely it can’t be down that little narrow road. If it is we can forget trying to get Brian down there. Then we find ourselves in the middle of the town, traffic and one-way systems everywhere. Thank goodness we didn’t do this in Brian! Lost the sign to the campsite so we leave Dylan in the next carpark we see and set off in the rain to find the tourist office. Back the way we came in, there it is. Inside we find a plan of the town and there is the campsite clearly marked. Back to Dylan, soaking wet by this time, and off we go again. We discover that to get to the campsite was through a network of tiny streets, though not as small as the one I first saw. If we arrive at five in the morning when there’s no traffic we should be ok… no trouble at all! Anyway, we find the campsite. Nice friendly little girl to greet us and we have a choice of two pitches right by the entrance. The first one is a bit too short and the second one is perfect. But can we get there? Cliff is confident we can, and if there’s cars parked in stupid positions we will just have to block the road until they move! From Espallion we went into Rodez and had a very nice lunch after which we went to find the hotel we stayed at before when we were cycle touring which was a converted tower. Still there although I didn’t remember the Pizza Pub next door but, when we got back to Brian, Cliff found his photos of that holiday and sure enough it had been there! Memory does play tricks…
Thur 16th May
A bit of a grey day so we thought a good day to visit the Micropolis which is an exhibition of insects and facts surrounding insects. It’s situated at Saint Leon which is where J.H. Fabre, the father of entomology, was born. We spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering around the exhibits and trying to avoid the parties of schoolchildren. Sammy unfortunately wasn’t allowed in so he had to stay at home and ‘do guarding’. I have to admit, I would not like to meet some of the insects they had there, face to face. While many were very pretty, a lot were, um, not so pretty! The colonies of wood ants were fascinating – their nests and food supplies were connected by a maze of plastic tunnels so you could easily see them going about their daily business – they walk for miles in ant terms. My favourite was the little nest of bumble bees and the praying mantis that looked like leaves (1st pic 2nd row).
We had lunch back at Brian where Sammy was very pleased to see us. Then we went out for a little tour and ended up at the Chateau De Peyrelade, a castle right of top of a huge outcrop of rock. We watched a very interesting video of the history of the Chateau, in medieval times it was surrounded by a village of about 42 houses and 350 inhabitants, the houses are now in ruins but parts of the castle have been restored. Evening dinner was in the Hotel Des Causses, a hotel we had stayed at while on our 2002 cycling tour. Cliff recognised it despite the newly painted magenta walls!
Lord, Lady and Knight of Peyrelade!
Fri 17th May
Cliff found a nice little walk above the little village of Les Vignes. He kindly drove us to the top so we didn’t have to walk 1500 feet to start! We were thrilled to see a couple of vultures perched on a rocky outcrop so stopped to watch them for a while. Then we came across a vulture feeding platform – since their re-introduction farmers are allowed to dump their dead animals on these platforms so the vultures are fed regularly. No dead animals there today but it was still a bit niffy. We turned the corner and there in front of us was a group of six vultures perched on top of a pillar of rock – Wow!
We were so excited. We stood for a while to watch them and take some photos then Cliff said to walk up to the next corner. And there it was obvious this was a popular place for vulture watching – a small footpath ran down to the cliff edge right opposite where the vultures were. I was busy taking a video of them when Cliff said – ‘Behind you!’ and when I turned there was one sitting really close to us! This had to be our coffee stop. We sat and watched them for about half an hour. Admittedly vultures are not very exciting creatures when on the ground – they sit very still and don’t do much other than stumble around occasionally. But when they fly – they are such magnificent birds and so graceful in the air – the males have a 9 ft wingspan! We felt very privileged to be able to see them so close to us.
When we’d had our fill of vultures we walked back to the car and drove back down to Les Vignes where we had lunch in a lovely little restaurant by the bridge over the River Tarn. Then we drove up the beautiful Gorge Du Tarn. The road is narrow and is cut into the cliffs in many places, with overhangs and tunnels. We passed many campsites and at most of them we said ‘We would never get Brian Down There’ and I’m very glad we didn’t attempt to! Rounding a corner a large group of people were attempting to pull a little Italian car out of the ditch. We stopped and asked if we could help. Someone had a climbing rope which we used to pull the car out with, accompanied by claps and cheers from the spectators! A very worried Italian lady became a very relieved Italian lady! Our Good Deed for the day.
We went on to Saint Chely Du Tarn, another place we had stayed in 2002 on our cycling holiday. Most of the village now consists of annexes to the hotel but it is very very picturesque with its bridge and waterfall. We went into the millhouse where the river rushes through, inside, on both sides very noisily and Sammy was terrified! So we didn’t stay long in there but continued on up to the tiny chapel built into the rockface. Then we saw hanging off the cliff face a large strange brown object, which through the binoculars we could see was wild bee honeycombs! We went on to visit Sainte Enimie, also a very picturesque medieval village. Back through the Gorge to Brian for tea. A very full day!
Saint Chely Du Tarn In the Mill House The Chapel Honeycombs
Sat 18th May
What a miserable day! Pouring with rain in the morning so Cliff caught up with his emails and I caught up with my diary. After lunch the sun came out for a while so we walked in Millau and sat and – yes you guessed it – had a coffee! Got back just before it started raining again. And then the heavens opened! Torrential rain, lightning, thunder and hailstones! You would not believe this is mid-May in the South of France! We are now surrounded by a moat – still, our tame ducks seem very happy!
Sun 19th May
Meeting at the Kingdom Hall this morning. The brother who gave the public talk was excellent – he spoke slowly and clearly with lots of pauses – I could actually understand most of the talk! After lunch we went for a drive as the weather still isn’t brilliant. Drove up over the hills and stopped at the little village of Nant and sat in the café drinking coffee and listening to all the locals chattering. Sammy made friends with a little toddler – he likes little children, they are his size!
Evening dinner in the site restaurant – the friendly couple who run it live here in their motorhome for six months of the year, accompanied by their enormous Newfoundland! Sammy hasn’t met her yet – just as well I suppose since she could eat him for breakfast and spit out the pips!
Contributed by Chris & Cliff
(Published 5th Mar 2013)
